For Your Puppy
The two biggest mistakes puppy owners make is: 1. overwhelming their new addition, which can lead to fearful behavior. 2. not immediately socializing the puppy between 8-12 weeks old, which can create a nervous puppy.
We start working with puppies at 8 weeks old because we know that the key socialization period is under 16 weeks old. Socialization is the most critical foundation you can provide your puppy. But in addition to that, our puppy training covers common puppy issues such as: soiling in the house, separation anxiety, chewing, stealing, digging, running away, guarding of food and toys, jumping up, fear of new things, fear of restraint and nipping. Our Fear Fear certified team can help your puppy grow into a happy and confident dog.
We start training puppies at 8 weeks old.
All training is done in your home.
We suggest videos by Dr. Sophia Yin and her book Perfect Puppy in Seven Days and Puppy Start Right: Foundation Training for the Companion Dog, by Dr. Kenneth Martin and Debbie Martin, to supplement what you learn during training.
The first 4 months of your dog’s life is the best time to build a foundation for training and for learning about the world. Socialization is critical during this time because puppies are primed for bonding to other animals and individuals, for learning that objects, people, and environments are safe, and for learning what the body cues and signals of others mean. Puppies who do not get adequate socialization during this period tend to be fearful of unfamiliar people, or dogs, or sounds, objects and environments.
By signing up for this training pass, you are set to build a foundation for a lifelong companion. Our Puppy Kindergarten training pass is 5 sessions. Each one hour session is focused on the most vital aspects of puppy development – socialization and dog-to-dog interaction. Our puppy training covers common puppy issues such as:
soiling in the house
guarding of food and toys
fear of new things
fear of restraint
Quick Answers based on Puppy Start Right: Foundation Training for the Companion Dog, by Dr. Kenneth Martin and Debbie Martin :
My puppy goes wild biting me and grabbing onto my pant legs. What do I do? Chapter 5: Problem Solving and Prevention (pages 54-55 in book)
Nipping and play biting are your puppy's attempt to interact with you. Redirect and provide your puppy with appropriate items to chew on. Engage your puppy to play with a toy when he is calm. Interacting with your puppy predictably and consistently creates a foundation for trust that will last a lifetime.
Why does my puppy pee as soon as he comes indoors after being outside? Chapter 6: House Training (pages 93-99 in book)
Complete bladder control in puppies is a gradual process. The key to successful house training is management and supervision. It is essential to go outside with your puppy so you know if his bladder is empty or full upon re-entering the home. Restrict access around the house when your puppy is unsupervised. Overly frequent urinations can indicate a bladder infection and complicate house training. See your veterinarian to rule out urinary tract infections.
My puppy is destroying rugs and furniture legs. How do I stop it? Chapter 5: Problem Solving and Prevention (pages 62-63 in book)
Puppies explore the world with their mouths. It is your job to manage your puppy’s environment by supplying appropriate chew toys and controlling access to inappropriate objects.
I cannot crate my puppy because he barks in the crate. How do I stop it? Chapter 5: Problem Solving and Prevention (pages 66-69 in book)
Most puppies suffer from some initial separation distress when left alone. If your puppy’s barking causes you to give him attention by talking to him or letting him out of the crate, you are actually rewarding the behavior of barking. Often the behavior will go away if it is not rewarded. If the barking is excessive, talk to your instructor, who can guide you to appropriate resources.
My puppy is frightened of the vacuum cleaner. How do I help him? Chapter 4: Socialization (pages 28-32 in book)
When your puppy is frightened of an object or person, it is important to change the meaning of that association to something pleasant. Often this is accomplished gradually by increasing the distance from the “scary” thing, and giving the puppy food treats when he sees it.
Additional Resources for your puppy:
The Culture Clash by Jean Donaldson
Don’t Shoot the Dog by Karen Pryor
Puppy Training for Kids by Sarah Whitehead
Living with Kids and Dogs…Without Losing Your Mind by Colleen Pelar, CPDT
These books can be found at one or more of the following: clickertraining.com, amazon.com, dogwise.com, Barnes and Noble, or Petsmart.