For Your Puppy
We start working with puppies at 8 weeks old because we know that the key socialization period is under 16 weeks old. Socialization is the most critical foundation you can provide your puppy. While socializing your puppy we lay an obedience foundation and teach common behaviors like sit, wait and come when called. We solve common puppy issues such as: soiling in the house, separation anxiety, chewing, stealing, digging, running away, guarding of food and toys, jumping up, fear of new things, fear of restraint and nipping. Our Fear Fear certified team can help your puppy grow into a happy and confident dog.
We start training puppies as early as 8 weeks old and up to 6 months. If your dog is older than 6 months our general obedience training is for you.
All training is done in your home. This means you DO NOT need to wait until your puppy is fully vaccinated. Start now. Your puppy starts learning from the first day in your home.
We suggest videos by Dr. Sophia Yin and her book Perfect Puppy in Seven Days and Puppy Start Right: Foundation Training for the Companion Dog, by Dr. Kenneth Martin and Debbie Martin, to supplement what you learn during training.
The first 4 months of your dog’s life is the best time to build a foundation for training and for learning about the world. Socialization is critical during this time because puppies are primed for bonding to other animals and individuals, for learning that objects, people, and environments are safe, and for learning what the body cues and signals of others mean. Puppies who do not get adequate socialization during this period can be fearful of unfamiliar people, or dogs, or sounds, objects and environments.
By signing up for this training pass, you are set to build a foundation for a lifelong companion. Our in-home training pass is 5 sessions. Each one hour session is focused on the most vital aspects of puppy development – socialization and dog-to-dog interaction. Our puppy training covers common puppy issues such as:
soiling in the house
guarding of food and toys
fear of new things
fear of restraint
How to Begin:
Tell us your puppy’s behavior history so we provide the best customized training plan to meet your goals. You won’t be distracted by your dog’s behavior as we gather information. We will provide you with immediate suggestions for your concerns. The call is typically 30-45 minutes. Pricing: $200 includes both a Phone Consult and In Home Evaluation for your puppy.
IN HOME ASSESSMENT
After your phone consult, we meet with you in your home for an hour visit with your puppy and family. Crate training and potty training. Chewing and Nipping. We will talk about these behaviors. Plus we demonstrate the training and you will receive easy to follow homework handouts and a training plan after the session.
PUPPY IN HOME TRAINING PKG
After completing your two-part Consultation, our dog training professionals will create a customized program to meet your goals and your puppy’s specific needs. Pricing: $475
Standard package (5 lessons, used within 6 months)
Once a week in your home
PUPPY SOCIAL (only available to in home training clients)
As a supplement to our in-home training program, clients and their puppies are able to attend weekly puppy socials. Puppy Social is only open to clients that are currently enrolled in our in-home training program for puppies. Puppy Social is a one hour play date where you get the benefit of individualized instruction, plus the puppies get socialization with new people and other dogs. Our goal is to help puppies learn how to play with one another and give owners peace of mind that they are provided safe opportunities to socialize their pets.
The Puppy Social usually occurs every Thursday at 7pm. We ask for a $20 donation. Puppies must be at least 8 weeks old have had the FIRST DHPP vaccination 10 days prior to class.
Quick Answers based on Puppy Start Right: Foundation Training for the Companion Dog, by Dr. Kenneth Martin and Debbie Martin :
My puppy goes wild biting me and grabbing onto my pant legs. What do I do? Chapter 5: Problem Solving and Prevention (pages 54-55 in book)
Nipping and play biting are your puppy's attempt to interact with you. Redirect and provide your puppy with appropriate items to chew on. Engage your puppy to play with a toy when he is calm. Interacting with your puppy predictably and consistently creates a foundation for trust that will last a lifetime.
Why does my puppy pee as soon as he comes indoors after being outside? Chapter 6: House Training (pages 93-99 in book)
Complete bladder control in puppies is a gradual process. The key to successful house training is management and supervision. It is essential to go outside with your puppy so you know if his bladder is empty or full upon re-entering the home. Restrict access around the house when your puppy is unsupervised. Overly frequent urinations can indicate a bladder infection and complicate house training. See your veterinarian to rule out urinary tract infections.
My puppy is destroying rugs and furniture legs. How do I stop it? Chapter 5: Problem Solving and Prevention (pages 62-63 in book)
Puppies explore the world with their mouths. It is your job to manage your puppy’s environment by supplying appropriate chew toys and controlling access to inappropriate objects.
I cannot crate my puppy because he barks in the crate. How do I stop it? Chapter 5: Problem Solving and Prevention (pages 66-69 in book)
Most puppies suffer from some initial separation distress when left alone. If your puppy’s barking causes you to give him attention by talking to him or letting him out of the crate, you are actually rewarding the behavior of barking. Often the behavior will go away if it is not rewarded. If the barking is excessive, talk to your instructor, who can guide you to appropriate resources.
My puppy is frightened of the vacuum cleaner. How do I help him? Chapter 4: Socialization (pages 28-32 in book)
When your puppy is frightened of an object or person, it is important to change the meaning of that association to something pleasant. Often this is accomplished gradually by increasing the distance from the “scary” thing, and giving the puppy food treats when he sees it.